ST MARY'S CHURCH
SOUTH BADDESLEY


St Mary the Virgin

(From the book by E. J. Hartwell)

This booklet owes its origin to Mr. Edward Drodge, who pointed out the need for a brief history of the church.Many people have helped me in the preparation of it, but I am specially grateful to Sue Campbell and Jude James, who both saved me from errors; responsibility for any that remain is, of course, mine.
E. J. Hartwell East End, 1991
 
THE HISTORY - The parish church of St. Mary came into existence when the parish of South Baddesley was formed out of Boldre parish in 1858. At that time a small chapel that had stood on this site for about forty years was enlarged to form the present church. This smaller chapel was itself the successor to an earlier building very near to Pylewell House that was demolished in 1819; and that chapel, built in or about 1731, replaced an ancient chapel dating back to the 14th Century. Our story starts then with the origin of this medieval building.

Tradition has it that the Knights Templar, and later the Knights of St. John, owned a preceptory at South Baddesley; but there appears to be no evidence for this. On the contrary, it seems clear that the story arises from a confusion between South and North Baddesley, where a preceptory certainly did exist. Moreover, our knowledge of the history of South Baddesley chapel, which can reliably be traced back to the early years of the 14th Century, does not seem compatible with the presence here of military knights. For it is known that in 1316 Henry de Welles, Lord of the Manor, applied for permission to build a chapel at South Baddesley on the grounds that it was so difficult for the parishioners to make the three mile journey to church at Boldre over bad roads. This chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was built by 1329, and included a chantry where Mass was said for the soul of the founder.

A century later, in 1429, the advowson, which implies the right to appoint the priest, was said to belong to John Lisle, Lord of the Manor of South Baddesley; but by the reign of Edward Vl (1547-1553) this right seems to have been lost, for in 1546 a survey reported that Nicholas Barnard, Vicar of Boldre, was acting as Chantry Priest at South Baddesley. At this time the endowment was valued at £4. 2s. 9d., of which the inhabitants were paying £2. 2s. 8d. 'of their only good will to have ministration there'.

It has been suggested that, at the time of the Reformation in the 16th Century, the role of South Baddesley chapel as a chantry gave the excuse for its endowment to be seized by the Crown; but for whatever reason the building then fell into decay, and it was not until the 18th Century that the chapel was rebuilt. By this time the Pylewell estate and the Lordship of the Manor of South Baddesley were in the hands of the Worsley family, who had also held the Baronetcy of Appeldurcombe in the Isle of Wight since 1611. A conveyance of 1741 by James Worsley, later to be the 5th Baronet, states, whereas the said James Worsley at his own costs and charges have lately erected and built at South Baddesley within the parish of Boldre a chapel - and has also set up and erected convenient pews and seats within the same for the more commodious attending of divine service and to the end that the said chapel may be supplied by persons of learning and good life'.

This chapel was built on a slight mound about 130 yards north west of Pylewell House, probably very near the site of the ancient chapel. The Worsley chapel may well have been erected in 1731, for that is the date of our church bell, perhaps the only surviving relic from the old chapel. We know that in 1741 the chapel was endowed with an annuity, 'charged on certain lands at Baddesley, of £12 to keep the chapel and pews or seats in repair, to find books for the minister and clerk, a surplice for the minister, and the residue to the minister for the time being.

Occupiers of seats had to raise a total of £10 yearly, and those who paid most had the best seats. If the £10 was not raised, the minister was not required to perform any services. Service was only once a day on Sundays.

The Pylewell estate remained in the hands of the Worsley family until 1781, when it was sold by the 7th Baronet to Ascanius William Senior. He in turn sold it in 1787 to Thomas Robbins, whose name appears as the owner on Milne's map of 1791 (q.v.). In 1801 it was acquired by a celebrated Roman Catholic family, when Thomas Weld bought the estate for his son, Joseph.

Joseph Weld achieved national fame as a yachtsman, and was a founder member of the Royal Yacht Squadron. A distinguished designer of yachts, including the Arrow, the Alarm and the Lulworth, he has been described as 'the father of yachting' and was one of the founders of the sport at Lymington. It was no doubt this strong interest that brought him to Pylewell, and some of the boats that he made famous were partly built at Pylewell Hard on the Solent shore of the estate. He maintained a Roman Catholic priest for his private chapel within the house, and his son, also called Joseph, was later responsible for building the Roman Catholic church in Lymington, the architect being Joseph Hansom, the designer of the Hansom cab.

In about 1818 there began at PylewelI a major programme of improvements to the house and grounds. It was the fashion of the time that every country house worthy of note must enjoy the privacy of its own parkland. To create such a park it was necessary to move the village of South Baddesley from the site it then occupied 400 yards north of Pylewell House, to demolish Baddesley Manor, the old manor house that stood near the centre of the village alongside Dodd's Pond, and to move the Lymington to East End road from the front of Pylewell House to its present route at the northern boundary of the park.

The villagers were rehoused, a new chapel was built for them on the site of our present church, and the Worsleys' chapel was demolished. For this purpose a faculty was required from the Bishop of Winchester. This faculty refers to a 'chapel of ease in the parish of Boldre built for the convenience of the Parishioners, a plain rectangular brick building 44 feet by 20 feet in the clear, exclusive of the belfry'. The Bishop seems to have had doubts whether the new building would be of greater convenience to the parishioners, but the observers whom he sent to South Baddesley, discovering no doubt that the village had already been moved, reported back that it would indeed be so.

The new building was still at this stage only a chapel, the minister being prohibited from performing any of the sacraments there. The chapel was assigned by deed of gift in 1819 by Joseph Weld to the Revd. Henry Adams of Beaulieu, son of the Master Builder at Buckler's Hard. There is at certain irony in the fact that this appointment was made by a Roman Cathoilc even before the main Act of Catholic Emancipation passed through Parliament in 1829; indeed it is doubtful whether to this day a Catholic may lawfully present or nominate to a benefice in the Church of England.

Forty years later, in 1858, the new chapel was to become a parish church for the first time. By then Pylewell was the property of William Peere Williams-Freeman, who enlarged the chapel by adding a chancel and transepts to make the present cruciform shape, and endowed it as the parish church of South Baddesley, East End and Norley Wood - an ecclesiastical parish formed from the civil parish of Boldre. The first incumbent was Josiah Norton, the parish register dates from 1858, and the first burial took place in the same year. For almost a century South Baddesley had a vicar with no other parish in his charge, until, in 1954, the benefice was united with East Boldre. More recently, in 1982, a restructuring of neighbouring parishes led to the joining of South Baddesley with Boldre, also as a 'united benefice', i.e. as two independent parishes in the charge of a single vicar.

Meanwhile, the Pylewell estate together with the lordship of the manor had passed after the death of Williams-Freeman in 1874 to the Whitaker family. The first William Ingham Whitaker came here in 1875. He built the village hall opposite the school which had been built earlier by Williams-Freeman, and provided generously in his will for the maintenance of the church. His son, the second William Ingham Whitaker, also took a strong interest in South Baddesley church, and his grandson, the third William Ingham Whitaker, was churchwarden here for fifty years. He died a bachelor in 1988, and was succeeded by his nephew, the twentieth Baron Teynham.

The brass lectern

THE FABRIC AND INTERIOR - The influence of Pylewell is, of course, apparent in a great many features of the building and its contents. The bricks used in building it and the hexagonal tiles on the floor of the nave were made at Pitts Deep in the brickyard of the PylewelI estate. The lectern and the altar cross were given in memory of the first William Whitaker; and the pulpit and panelling of the chancel, both made by estate employees from homegrown oak, and the sanctuary lamp are memorials to his son. So, too, is the reredos behind the altar which consists of 'material used in Westminster Abbey at the coronation of King George Vl and presented to St. Mary's Church by Her Highness Princess Marie Louise as a memorial to William Ingham Whitaker who died on July 10th, 1936`. The cushions and kneelers in the front pews were worked by his widow, Hilda, and the kneelers at the altar rail, with the views of Pylewell House in petit point, by his daughter, Elspeth. There are reminders, too, of the Whitaker family on the brass memorial tablets, while in 1990 donations given in memory of the third William Whitaker made a large, timely and extremely welcome contribution to the renewal of the roof of the nave.

Others also have their memorials. The candlesticks on the altar were given by Robert Dell, vicar from 1893 to 1907, and his wife, the tablet on the south wall of the nave pays tribute to three generations of the House family who were vergers. The altar and panelling in the south transept were carved by Mr. S. C. Wooldridge, a parishioner and a Lymington shipwright, to commemorate his son who was killed in a road accident; and the display case on the west wall is a memorial to David Goddard, vicar from 1963 to 1978, who is remembered with special affection by the people of South Baddesley. The organ, built by Bryceson Brothers about 1883, was renovated in 1947 in memory of Frederick Canterbury, for 48 years organist and choirmaster here; the wrought iron lamp brackets on either side of the chancel arch are also a memorial to him.

 
The Font   The Organ

The stained glass window in the north transept was installed in 1948 as a memorial to Dorothy Banks, wife of Sir Donald Banks, KCB, DSO, TD, who served with distinction in the first world war, was Defence Commander for Hampshire in the second, and among other varied appointments became the first Director General of the Post Office in 1934. The window shows a Madonna and Child with adoring animals, and the designer, Arthur Buss, now in his eighties, was later responsible for the design of the massive west window at Lancing College, said to be the largest rose window in the country. A second stained glass window, to be found in the sanctuary, is less conspicuous but very attractive in its own way, with its miniature Last Supper depicting only five disciples; while a third window, that in the west wall of the nave, is curiously placed, since the belfry beyond allows very little light to enter through it. This might suggest that the belfry was a later addition, were it not for the fact that there is mention of the belfry in the faculty of 1818 giving the Bishop's approval for the building of the new chapel.

An interesting and unusual feature of the church is the pierced chancel arch, 'fretwork tracery rustic and jolly', as Pevsner described it, with its decorated inscription.

At one time there were other similar inscriptions round the window arches of the nave, but these were removed about 1960. Another unusual feature is the construction of the domed ceiling at the crossing, which is suspended from a large metal wheel mounted above. This part of the church sustained serious damage in February, 1974, when an elm tree crashed on the roof during a storm. The building became unsafe for worship, and for more than two years the services were held in the village hall. Repair on this scale was a major undertaking for a parish of this size, with only about eighty people on the electoral roll; but in January, 1976 a roof appeal was launched and raised £4,000 in three months. The work was done, an heroic effort by Mr. F. C. Keeping, and the church reopened with a service attended by the Bishop of Winchester in October of that year - a remarkable achievement by all concerned.

It will be noticed that there are two entrances to the church: that in the south transept was intended for the use of the Lord of the Manor and his family, while the other at the west end gives access to the nave through the porch. Above the porch is the belfry which now contains a single bell bearing the inscription, "WM TOSHER CAST ME IN 1731". This bell was presumably transferred from the earlier Worsley chapel when that was demolished in 1818; and, as was mentioned earlier, may well give us a date for the building of it. The bell was cast by William Tosier (spelling does not seem to have been among his accomplishments) and was one of the last bells to be made at the Salisbury foundry where bells had been cast throughout the years from 1580 to 1733, the last bell of all being made in that year for St. Michael's Church, Southampton. The South Baddesley bell is older than any bell at Boldre or Lymington. In 1990 it was renovated and remounted by David Wooldridge in memory of his grandfather, Sydney Charles Wooldridge, who carved the altar in the south transept.

The clock in the belfry is now electric, but the mechanism that was removed in 1950 was restored by an enthusiast for presentation to the museum at Colchester. It is dated 1767, was made in Colchester by Nathaniel Hedge for St. Nicholas' Church, Colchester and probably came to South Baddesley about 1920.

St. Mary's Church is built of bricks from the Pylewell brickyard at Pitts Deep. Made from the green clay that is found there, the bricks - and the tiles on the floor of the nave - have a characteristic yellow colour to be seen in walls and houses in the area. Unfortunately, the bricks used in building the church do not appear to have been of high quality; the layer of render with which they are faced was presumably necessary to keep out the weather, but is certainly not an attractive feature of the building.

THE CHURCHYARD - The graveyard came into use when the ecclesiastical parish was formed in 1858. The earliest grave, to be found near the centre of the plot on the south side of the church, is that of Edmund Perkins, who was buried on the 20th July, 1859 by the first vicar, the Revd. Josiah Norton. Among other early graves of interest is that of John Bond, a policeman from East End, who died in 1861, marked unusually by an iron memorial, to be found in the south east corner of the south plot, and made, it seems likely, at Sowley ironworks. In this earliest section of the graveyard are buried many Pylewell Estate employees whose relatives were unable to afford the cost of a memorial stone. Their graves are marked anonymously by stones provided by the estate bearing only the inscription ' R. I . P.'

The graves of the Lords of the Manor and their families are situated in the south west corner of the graveyard. Their memorials include two, those of the first William Whitaker and of his mother, Eliza Sophia, that are specially fine examples of carving in marble by Italian craftsmen, reminding us of the family connection with Palermo. In a separate plot lie the ashes, together with those of her maid, of Margaret Emily Georgina Whitaker, second wife of the first William Whitaker. She was the daughter of Admiral Sir George Rose Sartorius, GCB, whose tombstone with its anchor and chain is a fine example of Victorian funerary art. The Admiral, who fought at Trafalgar and was later in charge of the Portuguese navy, had two sons who were both awarded the Victoria Cross. One of these, Major General Reginald William Sartorius, is buried near his father.

With the passage of time the graveyard has twice been enlarged by gifts from the Whitaker family of two further pieces of land to the east of the church. These additions are marked by boundary stones. At the north end of the nearer plot are the graves of the Duplessis family, former owners of Newton Park. In the further and later, plot is a modern gravestone, designed by Michael Kenny ARA, in memory of Robin Campbell, DSO, CBE, a former Director of Art with the Arts Council. The headstone is a symbolic representation of a chalice, while the horizontal section includes a circle, the symbol of wholeness, and a shape that recalls the gothic window and vault.

A humble church of modest architectural pretensions, St. Mary's at South Baddesley has a special place in the affections of those who know it well and who worship here. Perhaps its most endearing quality is its quiet woodland setting in a part of the New Forest that remains as peaceful as it is unspoiled.

VICARS OF SOUTH BADDESLEY
1858-1865 JOSIAH NORTON
1865-1870 JOHN BENWELL SEAMAN
1870-1876 EARNEST PEERE WILLIAMS-FREEMAN
1877-1892 JOHN WILLIAM HALL
1893-1907 ROBERT DELL
1907-1913 CHARLES ABDY BRERETON
1914-1916 BERNARD McNAUGHTON HAWES
1917-1946 RANDOLPH LLEWELLYN HODGSON
1946-1951 AUSTIN LOWELL BRYAN
1951-1953 FREDERICK CYRIL AUBREY COMBER GRlFFITHS
1954-1959 FREDERICK HENRY COLLINS
1960-1963 RONALD BERNARD BLOUNT
1963-1978 DAVID IVAN GODDARD
1978-1982 ARNOLD JOHN LEE
1982-1994 JULIAN RICHARDS
1994-1996 GORDON WATTS
1997-         MALCOLM RICHES